Front panel and lights

Ports

Facing the front, the Ethernet port and the button are on the far left. The six USB-C ports follow, numbered 1 to 6 from left to right. Each port has a status light above its number. The chassis light, to the left of port 1, shows the status of the controller.

Each light is mounted on the chassis at its slot, so it also shows when a slot is empty.

Port lights

For example: port 1 powering a laptop, port 2 a phone, port 3 idle, port 4 turned down for the budget, port 5 faulted and no port fitted at 6.

Light	Meaning
Blue	Powering a device at 12 V or more, such as a monitor, a game console or a laptop.
Green	Powering a device at 5 or 9 V, such as a phone or a Raspberry Pi.
White	Nothing to deliver: no device is plugged in, or the device has finished charging and is only trickling.
Cyan, blinking	The blade is starting up.
Slow pulse (blue or green)	Powering a device, but turned down because the chassis is at its power budget. See Sharing power.
Red, fast blink	The port shut itself off because of a fault. It tries again after 5 seconds. See Troubleshooting.
Dim amber	No port fitted in this position.
Off	The port is switched off.

The chassis light

The chassis light is dim green during normal operation. If more than one of these applies, it shows the first in this table:

Light	Meaning
Dim green	Normal operation.
Blue, breathing	The controller is waiting for Wi-Fi setup.
Amber, breathing	The controller has no API token yet and its settings are open for first-time setup. It stops when you save a token.
Red, breathing	The controller has no network connection. See Troubleshooting.
Red, fast blink	The input voltage from your power supply is out of range. See Troubleshooting.

Lights across the whole row

Some patterns run across all seven lights.

A sweep from left to right at power-up, starting with the chassis light. It also confirms that every light is working.

Every other light flashing blue: someone pressed Identify during Wi-Fi setup to find this unit. It lasts ten seconds.

Brightness and dimming

You can set the light brightness in the web interface’s Settings or in Home Assistant. At 0 the lights are off, except that a faulted port, or the chassis light during an input voltage fault, still blinks dimly.

Two schedules can dim the lights to a low level. The default low level is just visible in a dark room:

Night window: dim between two times of day, for example 22:00 to 07:00. This needs the clock, so set your UTC offset in Settings. The offset does not follow daylight saving time, so change it when the clocks change.
Idle dimming: dim after a period with nothing plugged in, unplugged or faulted. Any change at a port brings the lights back to full.

A short press of the button brings the lights to full brightness for 30 seconds.

The button

The button on the controller card does three things, depending on how long you hold it:

Press	What happens
Short press (under 3 seconds)	Flashes all lights white, then shows them at full brightness for 30 seconds. Useful when the lights are dimmed or off. On a controller with no API token yet, it also gives you another hour to set one over Ethernet.
Hold 3 seconds, then let go	Opens Bluetooth for ten minutes so you can change Wi-Fi.
Hold 10 seconds	Factory reset. Erases all settings and the fault log, then restarts.

From 3 seconds on, the lights fill up in blue from left to right, one light at a time, as a warning. If you let go while they are filling, you get the Bluetooth window and nothing is erased. When all seven are lit they turn red, and the reset happens without waiting for you to let go.